Click-lock laminate flooring is one of the most DIY-friendly flooring upgrades. No nails or glue are needed. Planks simply lock together and “float” over the subfloor. With patience and careful measuring, you can install laminate flooring in a typical bedroom over a weekend.
Materials and tools
- Laminate flooring (buy 10% extra for cuts and mistakes)
- Underlayment (and a vapor barrier over concrete)
- Tape measure, pencil, speed square and utility knife
- Jigsaw or miter saw, tapping block, pull bar and rubber mallet
- ¼-inch spacers, knee pads and safety glasses
Step 1: Acclimate the flooring
Leave the unopened boxes flat in the room for at least 48 hours (or as the manufacturer recommends). This lets the planks adjust to your home’s temperature and humidity and prevents gaps or buckling later.
Step 2: Prepare the subfloor
Remove old carpet and baseboards. The subfloor must be clean, dry and flat. Sand high spots and fill low spots with floor-leveling compound. Undercut door casings with a flush-cut saw so the new flooring slides underneath.
Step 3: Install the underlayment
Roll out the underlayment perpendicular to the direction of the planks, butting seams together and taping them. Over concrete, install a moisture barrier first unless your underlayment includes one.
Step 4: Plan the layout
Measure the room width and divide by the plank width. If the last row would be narrower than 2 inches, rip the first row narrower so both edge rows are balanced.
Step 5: Lay the first rows
Start along the longest straight wall with the tongue side facing the wall. Place spacers every 12 inches to leave a ¼-inch expansion gap. Click planks together end to end, then begin the second row with an offset piece.
Step 6: Stagger the seams
Keep end joints at least 12 inches apart from row to row for strength and a natural look. Use the tapping block and mallet to close gaps gently and never hit plank edges directly.
Step 7: Cut around obstacles and finish
Use a jigsaw for door frames and vents. Fit the final row with a pull bar. Remove spacers, then install baseboards or quarter-round molding, nailing it to the wall, not the floor, so the floating floor can expand.
Safety tip: Wear safety glasses and a dust mask when cutting laminate; the dust is fine and irritating.
How Much Laminate Flooring Do You Need?
Measure the length and width of the room and multiply to get the square footage. Add closets and alcoves separately. Then add about 10% for cuts and waste, or 15% if the room has lots of angles. Buy all your boxes at the same time so the color and batch match.
Can You Install Laminate Over Existing Floors?
Often, yes. Laminate floats, so it can go over vinyl, linoleum or tile as long as the surface is flat, clean and solid. Don’t install it over carpet. It needs a firm base, and carpet lets the joints flex until they break. Remove old flooring if it’s loose, damaged or would raise the floor too high at door thresholds.
Laminate Flooring Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping the expansion gap, which causes buckling in humid months
- Nailing trim into the floor instead of the wall
- Laying planks without checking that the first row is straight
- Using laminate in bathrooms unless the product is rated waterproof
Pair your new floor with a fresh wall color. See how to paint a room like a pro.
Taking down old wall coverings before the floor goes in? Read how to remove wallpaper first so the mess stays off your new planks.
